Oysters, Oysters Everywhere

OGRE alumni in the field extol the ecological benefits of oyster farming

Melissa A. Patricio
Oyster farmer with bags of oysters
Hannah Pearson '13, "hatchery guru," with bags of her adult oysters on the Island Creek Oyster Farm.

BRISTOL, R.I. 鈥 It鈥檚 been just two years since Hannah Pearson 鈥13 left the Luther Blount Shellfish Hatchery at 91海角乱伦, but she has waded into familiar territory just an hour north at the in Duxbury, Mass.

As shellfish hatchery manager, Pearson spends her days in 鈥淭he Treehouse鈥 鈥 a multi-level aquaculture lab created in a warehouse adjacent to the Duxbury Harbor. (Think your cubicle, but way cooler.) It鈥檚 here that Pearson raises her 鈥渂abies鈥: 100 million oyster eggs 鈥 12 miilion of which became mature enough this season to go from farm to fork via Island Creek鈥檚 wholesale market.

But Pearson鈥檚 is not your typical Monday through Friday, 9 to 5 job. For 10 months of the year, she is at the beck and call of the baby oysters, cleaning and feeding them.

鈥淎 lot of it has to do with timing,鈥 Pearson says. 鈥淚f you don鈥檛 use the algae in the right amount of time, it will start to die. I can鈥檛 keep the oysters in a 5-gallon tank for too long because it鈥檚 too crowded for them to survive. From January to July, I鈥檓 working every single day. Animals need to be taken care of every day 鈥 they don鈥檛 take Saturdays and Sundays off. But I鈥檓 used to it, and I love it.鈥

Because all of the water used in the hatchery鈥檚 2,500-gallon tank is drawn from the bay, Pearson is reliant on the tide charts 鈥 meaning that if high tide is at 1:00 a.m., Pearson will be at the hatchery to fill the tank.

鈥淎t times I have 100 million babies I鈥檓 taking care of,鈥 she says. 鈥淚t鈥檚 challenging, but at the same time those babies need to be fed and it鈥檚 rewarding to see them growing and succeeding.鈥

Also rewarding? The environmental benefits of oyster farming, Pearson says.

鈥淭he whole process of growing an oyster from day one when they鈥檙e eggs is environmentally friendly,鈥 she says. 鈥淭here is no waste in the production. We produce no emissions, and in my hatchery I only use a small amount of electricity. It鈥檚 a very sustainable process, because we let the ocean do the work for us 鈥 that鈥檚 the way you鈥檙e going to get a good looking oyster, and there鈥檚 no harm to anyone.鈥

Like Pearson, Ryan Rezendes 鈥14 is also operating a commercial oyster farm 鈥 but while Pearson is raising her oysters for human consumption, Rezendes is raising his 2 million oysters to filter the water. The two worked together on the 91海角乱伦 Oyster Gardening Restoration and Enhancement (OGRE) program (each earning President's Core Values Medallions at their respective graduations) and Rezendes now spends his days in Falmouth, Mass., where he is the shellfish manager and biologist at Little Pond. The pond, which was once swimmable, has been plagued with water quality issues for years.

Rezendes is leading a pilot study with the Department of Marine and Environment to evaluate how well the oysters can clean the water. Just halfway into the three-year study, Rezendes reports that water clarity is markedly improved and neighbors say they can now see the bottom of the pond.   

Ryan Rezendes '14 drags a line of oysters toward his "office" on Little Pond in Falmouth, Mass.

鈥淭he neighbors love the project, for the most part,鈥 Rezendes notes. 鈥淭hat came as a bit of a surprise. A lot of places in Rhode Island oppose oyster farmers in their backyards. These folks see it as a win-win, and understand that it will help clean up their water.鈥

Both Pearson and Rezendes credit Associate Professor Dale Leavitt and their training at the 91海角乱伦 hatchery for helping them land jobs almost immediately upon graduation 鈥 and for providing them with a solid scientific foundation to apply to oyster aquaculture in the field.

鈥淚t鈥檚 been great working with the farmers here, explaining to them the process,鈥 Pearson says. 鈥淭here are no other scientists here. They have hatchery experience, but never knew the science behind it. I have my knowledge from Roger Williams, they have their knowledge from messing around with hatchery work for years 鈥 together it鈥檚 a lot of collaborating, putting ideas together and making things happen.鈥

For his part, Rezendes enjoys being out in his 鈥渙ffice鈥 鈥 a raft he built in the middle of Little Pond 鈥 and splits his time between the pond and the lab, where he鈥檚 documenting all of the data he tracks on his oysters. He frequently brings some of Leavitt鈥檚 students out to the pond to work alongside him, and enjoys teaching anyone who wants to learn the ins and outs of oyster aquaculture. He is currently in talks with graduate programs from Boston to Tasmania, which is the world leader in oyster farming according to Rezendes.

鈥淥yster aquaculture in Rhode Island has exploded over the past decade or so, up 15 percent each year. It鈥檚 really taken off,鈥 he says. 鈥淏ut in Tasmania and Australia as a whole, the operations are massive and far more developed 鈥 and it鈥檚 an environmentally friendly business.鈥

Ultimately, Rezendes says he would like to travel to developing countries and help to implement valuable shellfish farming methods and establish aquaculture practices that could supply viable protein sources. 

Pearson plans to stay on with Island Creek for the foreseeable future, both in her hatchery and out on the farm, which has given her an even deeper appreciation of her bivalve babies:

鈥淢y favorite thing about oysters is that every single one is different,鈥 she says. 鈥淎t the microscopic level in the hatchery, you don鈥檛 see that 鈥 they鈥檙e all the same size and same color. On the farm, we go through about 25,000 oysters a week that we then sell. Touching every single one, measuring them, sorting them, you get to know how different they really are.鈥

And, she says, they are perfectionists.

鈥淎ll oysters want to grow into perfect oysters,鈥 Pearson says. 鈥淭he funny looking ones get thrown back into the water for a few months, and will correct themselves into a perfect shell 鈥 straight out from the hinge, a deep dome shape and a really nice beveled shell.鈥

Talented and tasty 鈥 a winning combination for ponds and plates everywhere!